Lance Armstrong Wants to Sell You a Season Pass

6 Jul

In 2016, Lance Armstrong launched the endurance-sports brand WEDU. It was an earnest rebranding effort for the fallen cyclist. “Who believes that the most meaningful revelations emerge at the far edge of your limits?” read the company's About page. “We do.”

Beyond that, the site didn't offer any specifics, seeming only to position WEDU as the umbrella brand for Armstrong's two podcasts, “The Move,” (formerly "Stages") where he provides in-depth analysis on cycling and triathlon races, and “The Forward,” where he conducts long-form interviews with an eclectic list of creatives and businesspeople. Scrolling farther down the WEDU site was surprisingly unhelpful for anyone looking for details on Armstrong's next venture: “WEDU is a mindset rooted in the belief that every challenge ignites a spark of growth and change.” 

On Thursday, the brand finally debuted a re-designed WEDU website, this time featuring original editorial content, both of Armstrong's podcasts, and a $60-per-year membership program called Season Pass, which will give buyers live access to the podcasts, exclusive stories, and handpicked-by-Armstrong members-only gear. The stories range from training tips from world champion Ironman Craig Alexander to a short listicle of "Five Totally Badass Women." 

Armstrong has shown a knack for clever branding with his other business ventures. In Austin, Texas, he already owns a coffee shop called Juan Pelota (a witty nod to his battle with testicular cancer) and a bike shop called Mellow Johnny's (a play on the French term for the Tour de France's famous yellow jersey). WEDU lacks that whimsy, perhaps because it's aimed at the core endurance crowd. With this project, Armstrong is hoping to reach and influence fans far beyond his Texas base. 

“The goal is to build and foster community around a shared passion for endurance sports and the endurance lifestyle,” says editorial director Julia Polloreno, former editor-in-chief of Triathlete. Whether there's a large community ready to subscribe remains to be seen. For now, the WEDU relaunch provides a first glimpse at Armstrong's second act, something both fans and haters have been eagerly anticipating ever since the famed cyclist finally settled the federal whistleblower lawsuit in May.


The Last Days of Marc-André Leclerc

19 Jun

In the summer of 2016, I was researching the northwest face of the Devil’s Thumb, an infamous peak in southeast Alaska chronicled in Eiger Dreams, by Jon Krakauer. As a young writer, Krakauer had himself climbed the east ridge, but as I soon learned, no one had ever ascended via the 6,500-foot northwest face. It was one of alpinism’s last great prizes. In 2003, Guy Edwards and John Millar, two top-tier Canadian climbers, had disappeared on that face during a week of bad weather and frequent avalanches. After a six-day search, Alaska state troopers gave up looking. No one had attempted the line since. 

I called Colin Haley, a Seattle-based alpinist who has climbed extensively in Alaska, to ask if he knew of anyone thinking about a push on the massive and dangerous face. He didn’t, but he told me that if I was searching for a story, I should look into a young man from British Columbia named Marc-André Leclerc. “He’s one of the best all-around climbers I know,” Haley told me. I called Leclerc.

On the phone, the 23-year-old was soft-spoken and articulate, and he laughed at himself when he slipped into Canadianisms like “eh.” He explained that he’d gotten into climbing after reading a book his grandfather gave him when he was eight years old, how he’d learned at a gym near Vancouver but had always been more interested in big mountains. “I told the grownups that I wanted to go to the Himalayas,” he said, “and they told me that it was too dangerous. In North America, people like to push the difficulty of climbing without pushing the risk. The danger aspect of going into the mountains is discouraged.”

Two days after our conversation, Leclerc left for Patagonia. Over the next few months, we spoke intermittently by e-mail and made plans to meet in December. Eventually, I learned that Guy Edwards, who’d cut his teeth climbing near Leclerc’s home before disappearing in Alaska, was one of the young Canadian’s heroes. What I couldn’t have known was that before long, on a peak not far from the one that had taken Edwards’s life, Leclerc would succumb to a similar fate.

Like many couples in their twenties, Leclerc and his girlfriend, Brette Harrington, had a tough time saying goodbye. But on the morning of Saturday, March 3, 2018, it proved easier than usual.

The week before, the pair had made a first ascent of a peak called Station D, 42 miles from their home in Agassiz, in southwestern B.C. Temperatures dipped to minus four degrees, and Leclerc let Harrington, a petite blonde with bright blue eyes and nerves of steel, lead every pitch so she could stay warm. At night he heated her feet on his stomach. Still, when they returned from the climb after four cold days in the mountains, Harrington was ready for warmer weather. She headed to Tasmania to climb on Tasman Island for two weeks with friends.

(John Price)

Leclerc had a few options to pass the time while she was gone. He’d been thinking of soloing Mount Waddington, at 13,186 feet the highest peak in Canada’s Coast Mountains, but the conditions weren’t lining up. The weather around Juneau was looking good, though. And he remembered an invitation he’d received a few months earlier from a 34-year-old climber named Ryan Johnson.

Johnson, a Juneau local, was an Alaskan climber through and through. He claimed that he could feel the difference between 80- and 100-mile-per-hour winds. He once described himself as having “biceps like a seventh-grade member of the debate team and calves like bull testicles,” but as a gold and silver miner in southeast Alaska, he developed a reputation as a little guy who could outwork the big guys.

Johnson had obsessed over the north face of the Main Mendenhall Tower for years. The seven-peak granite massif lies ten miles north of Juneau. Over the years, Johnson had put up countless routes on all the towers. But the proudest and most obvious line was the unclimbed 2,500-foot north face. He’d attempted it once, in 2015, but turned back when the ice got thin halfway up. The route, Johnson explained when he contacted Leclerc about climbing it together, wasn’t technically difficult, but it was extremely challenging to protect against a fall—even a small slip could be fatal. The granite would be heavily rimed, like climbing Styrofoam, and though they’d be roped up, they’d need to climb as if they were soloing the face. It sounded right up Leclerc’s alley.

By the time Johnson reached out to him, Leclerc was no longer just a promising young climber; he was being lauded as the leader of a new generation of alpinists. In 2015, he made his second trip to Patagonia and soloed the Corkscrew linkup on Cerro Torre. The 4,000-foot route features exposed ice and rock climbing and was the hardest line anyone had ever soloed in the region. Leclerc was just 22 years old. In September 2016, he went back and soloed Cerro Torre’s neighbor, Torre Egger. The line he chose, on the East Pillar, was even harder than the Corkscrew. “Want the definition of badass?” wrote Rolando Garibotti, Patagonia’s most respected climber and its de facto record keeper for accomplishments in the southern Andes. “There you have it.”

No one had soloed Egger in winter, but Leclerc, it seemed, had the ideal skill set for the job. As Katie Ives, editor of Alpinist, told me last year when I spoke to her for a profile of Leclerc I was working on, “He’s bringing the kinds of technical abilities that we used to associate with sport climbing to places where they’re also dealing with altitude, rime, ice, bad weather, and wet rock. He’s putting all the pieces together.”

Climbing ran a profile of Leclerc in September 2017, titled “The Calculated Madness of Marc-Andre Leclerc.” Sender Films, the production company behind Valley Uprising, began filming with him. But even as the media came calling, Leclerc didn’t seem to care. When a film company requested some B-roll of him ambling around Squamish, B.C., he bashfully avoided the town’s main drag, not wanting to attract attention. I spent a week with him in December 2016, while he was living in his mother’s attic an hour east of Vancouver, and he seemed more excited to have me around as a belayer than by the prospect of media coverage. He simply loved to climb. Which explains why, when a climber he’d never heard of contacted him about tackling an obscure Alaskan peak, he jumped at the chance.

The night before Harrington and Leclerc parted ways for their separate climbs, Harrington wrote Leclerc a long letter about how sad it was to say goodbye. “But I know you’re gonna have an amazing time in Alaska,” she wrote in loopy green letters. “I can’t wait to see you again and we can climb together all spring! Good luck and be safe.”

She never gave it to him. It was 4 a.m. when Harrington dropped Leclerc at the airport in Vancouver for his flight to Juneau. She hugged him and he was gone.

At 7 a.m. on Sunday, March 4, a chopper chartered from a Juneau outfit called Coastal Helicopters touched down on the Mendenhall Glacier, north of the towers. The sun had just come up, and the weather was clear. The forecast called for a high-pressure system to move through the area for at least three days, and the snowpack seemed stable.

The 2,500-foot north face of the Main Tower is taller than Yosemite’s Half Dome. Even for Alaska—where everything is big—the face is enormous. In late winter it never sees the sun. The wall terminates at a series of crevasses that litter a 55-degree snowfield for a few hundred feet before aproning out into a flat expanse on the glacier. If a rock fell from the ridge, it would plummet a couple thousand feet before bouncing down the snowy run-out and coming to rest a quarter-mile from where it first landed. That’s the approximate spot Leclerc and Johnson cached all the gear they wouldn’t need until the following day, when they’d ski ten miles out the West Mendenhall Glacier Trail back to Juneau. They planned to return by Wednesday evening at the latest.

They didn’t have much gear to cache. Both climbers were fanatical about moving fast and light over unknown terrain. On one of Leclerc’s monthlong solo trips to Patagonia, he brought just five carabiners and two ice screws—less gear than most climbers take for a day at the crag.

Leclerc and Johnson stuck their skis and an avalanche probe in the snow and attached a reflective vest to the probe so they could see it from high up the face. Then they racked up and trudged toward the black granite face.

The climbing wasn’t nearly as hard as some of the routes the men had completed in the past. They probably didn’t talk much. When you’ve got a good partner for an alpine climb, there isn’t a lot to say. There are fleeting moments when both would’ve been at a belay stance, but even then it’s a quick changeover of gear, maybe a couple of words about the line, then back to the business of putting one ice tool in front of the other.

The sun set at 5:35, and Leclerc and Johnson bivied on the face, probably snacking on trail mix and using a small stove to melt snow to drink. They’d have started climbing again by first light.

Just before 10:30 a.m. on Monday March 5, Leclerc texted Harrington, who was still in Tasmania: “Love, I’m at the summit! It was an incredible climb.” He sent her a few photos and posted to Instagram. “Rare live update here,” he wrote, accompanying a photo looking west. “That is Mt Fairweather in the distance.” Then he texted his mom an image of the surrounding peaks. “Beautiful,” she responded. “Where are you?”

Meanwhile, Johnson took a video for his girlfriend, spinning in a circle to show her a cloudless view that stretched a hundred miles.

Marc-André Leclerc was born on Vancouver Island but largely raised in Agassiz, a small agriculture town in the Fraser Valley. It’s conservative and religious, though Leclerc was neither. It’s the kind of place, he said, where people “get a farm, get their blessings from the Lord, and have a bunch of kids to help out.”

The family didn’t have much money. His father, Serge, worked construction. His mother, Michelle, stayed home with Leclerc, his younger brother, and their elder sister, before taking a job at a restaurant to help make ends meet.

The region is not known for alpinism or climbing of any sort. If anything, it’s notable for producing exceptional corn. But as a four-year-old, Marc-André knew the height of Mount Everest to the foot and could recite the exploits of Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay the way some kids reel off dinosaur names. His mind moved at hyperspeed. He would draw diagrams for his mom of ionic bonding; as an eight-year-old he tossed and turned in bed, thinking about the scientific principle of entropy. Climbing was the only time his brain could relax. He learned, like many kids his age, at a local gym. But it was the mountains he wanted. Despite winning competitions against boys three years his senior, he asked his mom to pull him from the climbing team.

At 14, he started working construction with his father. It was hard, but he liked it. He saved his money and bought some second-hand ice-climbing tools, a rope, and a set of steel pitons that he learned to use from an old army survival manual. The gear would have been state-of-the-art had he gotten it 60 years earlier. “It wasn’t like I said. ‘Oh, I want to get into climbing,’ and then my parents bought me a ten-day course with guides and a bunch of new gear,” Leclerc told me with just a touch of pride in his voice. “I had to save up my pennies and buy shitty ice axes.”

A middle-aged land surveyor taught him to ice-climb when he was in high school, and he topped out his first multi-pitch route with a German man who was in his seventies. To get to trailheads, Leclerc would hitchhike, take the bus, or have his parents or his sister drop him off. He did most of his climbing alone, slowly developing his technique on rock and ice. He practiced building anchors in his room and scaled telephone poles with his ice tools. He became one of the best climbers of his generation largely by reading books and doggedly figuring things out on his own.

Leclerc finished high school a year early, spent a summer hanging drywall, and then moved two hours northwest to Squamish, where he met Harrington. If there was one thing he loved more than climbing, it was Harrington—“the cute one,” as he referred to her. You could barely talk to him without a digression to what incredible thing Harrington was doing at the moment. “Isn’t she amazing?” he’d say to anyone who’d listen.

The two met when she was 20 and he was 19. She was in college in nearby Vancouver, and he was living in a friend’s stairwell for $180 month. All either of them wanted to do was climb. They started tying in together and soon were dating. Leclerc loved being in the mountains. Even more, he loved being in the mountains with Harrington. They traveled to Baffin Island, Yosemite, and Patagonia, getting better and better. When he soloed the Corkscrew, she was soloing Chiaro di Luna, a 2,500-foot climb on the opposite side of the valley. That night at base camp, as a storm raged around them, they sang in their tent, celebrating together.

Leclerc always called Harrington when he was out of the mountains to let her know he was OK. When Wednesday rolled around and he hadn't contacted her, she texted him: “I hope your making it back okay. It’s been awhile since your summit message.” She didn’t get a response, so she called Juneau Mountain Rescue to check in.

Juneau, a town of 32,000, isn’t considered a climbing destination. The community of climbers there is small. Many on JMR knew Johnson personally; some had teamed up with him to climb. Three years earlier, Johnson, though not a member of the crew, had saved the lives of four JMR members who’d been pinned down on a ridge by a storm.

It was Wednesday morning, March 7, when they got Harrington’s call. One of JMR’s members had talked to Johnson before he left for the towers and reported that the men weren’t due back to town until later that evening.

Maybe I jumped the gun on this one, Harrington thought. She played out the possible scenarios in her mind. If search and rescue deployed the next day and didn’t find Leclerc’s skis, it meant that the men were somewhere on the glacier and headed back. If they found their skis at the base of the climb, it meant that for some reason they were still in the mountains, unable to call for help or get themselves out. And that meant she was flying to Alaska.

The next day, Harrington’s phone rang. It was Gabe Hayden from JMR.

“Brette,” Hayden said, “we found their skis.” Hayden was a frequent partner of Johnson’s. They’d climbed the south buttress of the Main Tower in 2011 and the south face of the West Tower in 2013. Hayden told Harrington that a Sitka-based Coast Guard helicopter had flown out to the towers and scanned the north face and surrounding glacier with an infrared camera, trying to pick up any signs of body heat. The search turned up empty; there were no bodies. The assumption was that Leclerc and Johnson had descended the line they climbed up and been swept from the face by an avalanche. 

It sounded to Harrington like that was it; that they were calling off the search. No, no, no, she thought. We can't call the search off after one day. This is not OK. She booked a flight and started planning her own operation. She made lists of the gear they’d need and locations to search.

In fact, the search hadn’t been called off, but by the time Harrington landed in Juneau on Saturday, March 10, it was on hold. The day before, a Coast Guard helicopter had made it only as far as the south branch of the glacier before the weather moved in. Visibility was too low and the winds too high to get a helicopter safely out to the towers. Instead, from their base at the Alaska National Guard hangar at Juneau International Airport, JMR began assembling a timeline through the text messages the men had sent from the summit.

By this point, a small cadre of Leclerc’s and Johnson’s friends, family, and climbing partners had assembled in Juneau: Leclerc’s parents and sister, Bridgid-Anne; his Squamish climbing buddies Will Stanhope, Paul McSorley, and Kieran Brownie; Nick Rosen and Pete Mortimer of Sender Films; Justin Sweeny, the athlete manager at Arc’teryx, Leclerc’s sponsor; and Clint Helander and Samuel Johnson, climbing partners of Ryan Johnson’s.

Leclerc’s summit text to Harrington was sent at 10:26 a.m. His final text to his mom was sent more than an hour later. It was unlikely that the men spent that much time on the summit, and had they descended the same way they climbed up, they would have lost service immediately. They must have gone another way.

More than the breathtaking difficulty and audacity of Leclerc’s climbs, it was his approach to climbing that set him apart. He was, technically and athletically, on the same level as someone like Alex Honnold. Yet he largely flew under the radar. He preferred it that way.

“On the one hand, you have someone who is really on the cutting edge of modern alpinism,” said Alpinist’s Katie Ives. “On the other hand, he’s working within a philosophical mindset that’s very old-fashioned.”

The trip reports that Leclerc wrote on his blog are peppered with icy summit bivouacs and other sketchy moments, but he always seems, in his own words, “deeply happy and in an incredible state of mind.” At one point, he writes, “I was being drawn toward the mountain in a search for adventure, by a desire to explore my own limitations and to also be immersed in a world so deeply beautiful that it would forever etch itself into my memory.”  

(Scott Serfas)

He idolized men like Guy Edwards and Walter Bonatti, archetypes of a bygone era of exploration. “Old-school climbers are renowned for their toughness,” he told me wistfully as we elbowed up to the bar in a log-cabin pub near Agassiz. “You read about Bonatti soloing the Bonatti Pillar. He got soaked in the rain, froze, spilled gas in his food, smashed his finger with a hammer and cut the end off, and he still finished the route. You don’t really hear about people doing stuff like that these days.”

But that’s the life Leclerc wanted to live. “He’s on a personal quest,” said climber Steve House. “His art is alpinism.”

While making the first solo ascent of the Emperor Face of Canada’s Mount Robson in April 2016, Leclerc bivied at the summit, hoping to wait out the night for better descent conditions. While heating water, it boiled over and soaked his clothes. Then the batteries in his headlamp died. Then he dropped his lighter, leaving him without any more water and rendering his stove—and his freeze-dried food supply—useless. Alone and freezing in the dark on the Canadian Rockies' highest peak, Leclerc took it all in stride. “Despite the discomfort,” he later wrote, “it was undeniable that the situation was quite stupendous.” He eventually stumbled his way back down the peak to the trailhead.

“Some people seem to want it a little too much,” said Honnold, who crossed paths with Leclerc a few times in Patagonia. “You’re just not sure if the motivation is pure for why they want to be good at something. Marc doesn’t seem to want it at all. He just does it. He doesn’t want any of the accolades or anything, he just wants to have an experience in the mountains.”

After Leclerc made his ascent of the Emperor Face, he wrote:

It was now my fourth day alone in the mountains and my thoughts had reached a depth and clarity that I had never before experienced. The magic was real. … Through time spent in the mountains, away from the crowds, away from the stopwatch and the grades and all the lists of records I’ve been slowly able to pick apart what is important to me and discard things that are not.

The last time I saw him, I asked Leclerc what those things were. “It’s important to appreciate the place you’re in,” he said, “and to have a memorable experience, something that sticks with you for a long time. When I’m old, I want to have all these adventures in my memory.”

By the evening of Saturday, March 10, the possibility that Johnson and Leclerc were still alive, stuck in a crevasse somewhere that hadn’t been searched yet, brought a small glimmer of hope and a whirlwind of activity to the rescue operation. But the helicopters were still grounded.

The hurry-up-and-wait nature of the search left the climbers’ friends and family in an odd, liminal space. There was a lot of urgency but not much to do about it.

“Marc-André would love it here,” his sister, Bridgid, kept saying. Everywhere that Harrington, Michelle, and Bridgid went, people knew who they were. They weren’t allowed to pick up tabs for meals or drinks. A waitress baked them scones at her house. Harrington played videos on her phone of Marc-André singing and dancing. They learned about Johnson, too: that he had an enthusiasm for climbing that he could never quite contain, which sounded a lot like Leclerc to the three women. It was clear that the two climbers must have hit it off immediately.

As a twentysomething young man, Johnson had a wild streak, chain-smoking cigarettes in his tent. But in 2015, he had a son, Milo. Johnson settled down. He opened a CrossFit-style gym in Juneau. Becoming a father, he told his parents, “lived up to the hype.”

On Tuesday March 13, the sky went blue. It had snowed more than four feet in the six days since Leclerc and Johnson were reported missing. With help from the Alaska National Guard, JMR took a Blackhawk helicopter out to the towers. While buzzing the summit, they spotted the nearly filled-in divots of two sets of footprints traversing the ridge heading east. The footprints ended at the top of a gully where a line of cool blue ice dropped roughly 1,000 feet from the ridge all the way to the bergschrund, a large crevasse near the base of the wall formed by the glacier retreating from the face. A small piece of black and white cordelette dangled at the top.

The SAR team headed back to base and switched to an AStar helicopter. Smaller and more nimble than a Blackhawk, the AStar would allow them to get in closer to the gully. It was also equipped with a Recco detector, which uses radar to pick up metal or electronics.

In a separate helicopter, Harrington and Samuel Johnson monitored the AStar’s progress with Emily Nauman, a member of JMR. They flew in close to the north face. Ribbons of ice coated a series of steep headwalls. Above that, snow ramps led to ridges and then the summit. A cornice hung along the ridge leading to the gulley. At the bergschrund, part of an orange rope was visible. The AStar hovered over it for a long time.

They’re there, Harrington thought. They’re right there.

She felt close, like she could reach them. Hiking in to check if Leclerc and Johnson were there and still alive wasn’t an option. The hazard was just too great. Somehow she knew Leclerc was gone.

“Will you fly to the summit with me?” she asked, turning around in her seat to face Samuel. “We can rappel their descent line and find them.” It was a risky proposition. But Samuel agreed.

The helicopter turned and flew back to town to get the gear they’d need. When they arrived, JMR members showed them close-up photos of the men’s gear taken from the AStar. An orange climbing rope was partially visible in the snow. According to the Recco search, the men were buried 15 feet below. A dangerous rappel wouldn’t be necessary.

“Due to the circumstances,” read a dispatch by the Alaska State Troopers later that day, “Johnson and Leclerc are presumed deceased.”

Dying on rappel is common. Two climbers perishing at once on rappel is extremely rare. There is a chance that one of the men made a mistake while building the anchor, or that they neglected to put stopper knots at the tail ends of their rope. Everyone makes mistakes. But those who knew Leclerc and Johnson best consider the likelihood of any of those explanations vanishingly small. The two climbers were too methodical and careful.

Of course, care doesn't always protect you in the mountains. Something could have fallen on them and severed the anchor holding them to the wall. It could have been a large chunk of ice or rock. A cornice could have ripped off. An avalanche could have swept down the gully. All three events can be triggered by a single person, by changes in temperature, or by nothing at all.

Leclerc and Johnson probably made about five rappels before they reached the bergschrund. They wouldn’t have had much time to react. They would have braced themselves against the bergschrund, hoping that by some miracle whatever it was that fell from the sky missed them. Instead, it tore them from the wall. They were less than half a mile from their skis.

In the days after the search was called off, Harrington returned to the Mendenhall Towers. She walked at the base of the cliffs, a safe distance from the runout zone. The snow was warm and wet, and it crunched under her feet. She had so many things she wanted to tell Leclerc.

She stood still and listened to the towers. Listened for cornices falling. Listened for avalanches. Listened for rockfall. She heard only the perfect stillness of winter. Nothing moved. Nothing made a sound.

Honnold and Caldwell Break Two Hours on El Cap’s Nose

6 Jun

After three weeks of practice runs, two broken records, and one hundred-foot fall, Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold became the first people to climb the Nose route on Yosemite’s El Capitan in under two hours. On Wednesday morning, they topped out the 3,000-foot hunk of granite in 1 hour, 58 minutes, and 7 seconds after they left the valley floor. 

It’s hard to overstate just how ridiculously fast that is. They averaged a time of 3 minutes and 48 seconds over each of the 31 pitches, moving at a rate of more than 25 feet per minute. For context, most parties take around three days to climb the route. 

Last October, when Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds knocked the record down to 2:19:44—shaving four minutes off the then-fastest time held by Honnold and Hans Florine—it felt like they might remain on top of the record books for at least a little while. Turns out, they were only on top for a single winter. Last Wednesday, Honnold and Caldwell knocked the time down to 2:10:15. “From the get go, we’ve been talking about sub-two,” Honnold told Outside shortly after that record. “I think we can. We’re going to keep trying a bit.”

On Monday, they climbed the route in 2:01:53, despite a stuck rope near the top that cost them at least two minutes. “We’re both adapting to the level of effort,” Honnold said. “We've been climbing the Nose four days a week for three weeks. This climb felt more casual than our 2:10 climb.” 

If you were following their progress, sub two hours started to feel inevitable, even to the two climbers. “That’s totally how it felt,” Honnold said this morning. “Each time we were improving a bit. Today honestly wasn’t perfect, but it was good enough, so we’re psyched.” 

For his part, Caldwell was worried that he wouldn't be able to keep up with Honnold. “I’m getting kind of old,” he said. "But Alex has a way of whipping me into shape.”

Honnold feels that the true human potential on the route is closer to 1:30 or 1:15, though they won’t be trying again any time soon. “We’re totally over it,” Honnold said. "Not trying again.”

“We definitely did it way safer than we could have and it felt very reasonable the whole time,” Caldwell said. “But it’s been stressful for our family and friends.”

Will Gobright and Reynolds take another shot? “I’m inspired and relieved they got their sub-two-hour time today,” Gobright said. “It’s the proudest speed climbing ascent to have happened in the history of U.S rock climbing. I’m proud Jim Reynolds and I held the record for a bit of time but in all honesty our time is no where close to their time. The level of talent and confidence required to climb El Cap that fast is hard for me to grasp. Part of me would be excited to see someone try to break it but deep down I hope no one tries. At least not in my lifetime.”

The Outrageously High Cost of Speed Climbing

5 Jun

Shortly after Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell broke the speed record on the Nose route in Yosemite last week, I spoke with John Long, who made the first one-day ascent of the Nose in 1975. "As this record gets lowered," he said, "the only way to do it is to take increasingly hairy risks. All these guys are operating at the same level. The fluency on rock is self same. What's speeding this thing up is increasing the compromises they're living with in the safety system."

Most speed attempts involve a variety of unconventional techniques. One of the main ones is known as simul climbing, which eschews the typical pitched out climb with anchored belays in favor of both members moving at the same time attached together by a rope and protected from a fall by a few pieces of gear. "If one person comes off the wall," Long said, "they're hoping the gear catches them. There's really no room for error."

Honnold told me that one of the reasons he wanted to climb with Caldwell was that he "can really trust him. Tommy cares about safety. He's a family man and won't do anything crazy up there." Still, the risks of climbing at speed are clear. In the lead-up to the record attempt, the pair climbed the route eight times in two weeks to practice. At one point Caldwell, arguably the best trad climber alive, took a 100-foot fall, though he walked away unscathed. The same was not true for Hans Florine, who set the speed record on the Nose in 2002, 2008, and 2012. In May, Florine was running a quick-but-not-record-pace lap when a small piece of gear popped on the 22nd pitch. He fell 25 feet and broke bones in both his legs. Last fall, Quinn Brett, who once held the women's speed record on the Nose, took a fall on the boot flake, a prominent feature on pitch 17. She broke her 12th thoracic vertebra and was paralyzed.

"There's a shadow side to this thing that the world should be very aware of," Long said. He was referring specifically to the Nose record, but might as well have been talking about anyone looking to move increasingly fast up large rock faces. On Saturday morning, the dangerous reality of speed climbing was brought into focus when two veteran Yosemite climbers, Tim Klein and Jason Wells, fell 1,000 feet to their deaths from the lower pitches of the Salathé wall, adjacent to the Nose. The pair were extremely experienced. It would have been Klein's 107th one-day ascent of El Cap. Wells holds the speed record on Colorado's 650-foot Naked Edge: 24 minutes, 29 seconds. The two climbers appear to have been simul climbing on relatively easy terrain.

Which isn't to say they were moving at the same ludicrous speed that Caldwell and Honnold move at. It doesn’t look like they were going for any kind of record, but they were moving fast and likely using some similar tactics.

“I’ve been worrying about this speed game for awhile. The faster you go the more dangerous it is,” Ken Yager, founder of the Yosemite Climbing Association told Climbing magazine over the weekend. “With speed climbing you don’t have time to double check your systems. It’s all fun and games until you lose a party like this. It’s horrible.”

After the deaths, Long wrote a comment on the climbing forum SuperTopo.

"It's starting to be clear that speed climbing...needs to be reconsidered," he wrote. "I offer no solution or even recommendation per speed climbing but if it keeps maiming and killing the best among us it deserves a close look... If nothing else this and recent accidents will make perfectly clear what [the] risks are. Then the choice is yours."

Caldwell and Honnold Break the Nose Record. Again.

5 Jun

Five days ago, Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell shattered the speed record on the Nose route on El Capitan in Yosemite, climbing the line in 2 hours, 10 minutes, 15 seconds. But they had a few tangled ropes and a couple mishaps, which forced a bit of down climbing and wasted valuable seconds. They wanted to go faster. 

“From the get-go, we've been talking about sub two,” Honnold said after the climb. “I think we can. We're going to keep trying a bit.”

This morning, they inched ever closer to the sub-two mark, setting a new record on the nearly 3,000 foot route: 2 hours, 1 minute, 53 seconds. 

“A lot of it is familiarity with the route,” Honnold says. “Even though it doesn’t feel like we’re moving faster, we are. Every time we do a lap we’re a little smoother. We’re adapting to a new level of effort.”

But they still weren’t perfect. Just six pitches from the summit, their rope got stuck. Caldwell had to rappel down and shake it loose, while Honnold sat and waited. “It cost us at least two minutes,” Honnold says, “and ultimately the two-hour mark.’

It’s been a weekend of highs and lows in Yosemite Valley. On Saturday, two experienced climbers fell to their deaths from the Salathé Wall 

Honnold and Caldwell climbed the Nose yesterday, intentionally moving at a more casual pace to get a feel for how the deaths affected their headspace. “I didn't know them personally,” Honnold says. “But it is sobering. What we’re doing is a little bit different, but it’s using the same strategy and the same tactics. It’s definitely on the same spectrum.”

Honnold said he and Tommy will continue to try to chip time off the record in the coming weeks. 

Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell Break Nose Speed Record

30 May

Last October, Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds climbed the Nose route on Yosemite's El Capitan in 2 hours, 19 minutes, and 44 seconds, breaking the 2012 speed record held by Alex Honnold and Hans Florine by nearly four minutes. Needless to say, that didn’t sit too well with Honnold. 

At the time, Honnold told us “It’s actually really motivating. Now I have a reason to train, and climbing the Nose fast is fun. And Brad deserves it—he worked really hard—but I am going to smash his record in the spring. I’m recruiting Tommy Caldwell.”

Which is exactly what he did. Caldwell and Honnold have spent the spring in the Valley, running laps on the most famous chunk of granite in the world. This morning, they flew up the nearly 3,000-foot route in 2 hours, 10 minutes, and 15 seconds, a little more than nine minutes faster than Gobright.

Alpinists Leclerc and Johnson Died in Climb

14 Mar

The search for alpinists Marc-Andre Leclerc, 25, and Ryan Johnson, 34, has been called off. The two men had not been heard from since Monday, March 5, when they made an attempt on the north face of the main Mendenhall Tower, a dozen miles from Juneau, Alaska. When they didn't return to town by the evening of March 7, Alaska State Troopers and Juneau Mountain Rescue began a search and rescue operation.

Between weather delays, helicopters searched both the north and south sides of the towers, as well as possible descent routes. According to a post from the Alaska State Troopers, on Tuesday, the “weather cleared and search assets were able to be deployed. The chartered Coastal helicopter, with Juneau Mountain Rescue members on board, was able to reach the north face of the Mendenhall Towers. An intact anchor rope was seen at the top of an ice shoot on the 4th Tower. Two climbing ropes were also seen in a crevasse midway down the 4th Tower. The ropes match the description of the gear carried by Johnson and Leclerc. Due to the circumstances, Johnson and Leclerc are presumed deceased. Due to continuing significant avalanche danger and safety hazards, recovery efforts are not feasible at this time.”

That evening, Leclerc's father, Serge, posted a note to Facebook:

"Sadly we have lost 2 really great climber and I lost a son I am very proud of. Thank you for the support during this difficult time. My heart is so broken...Part of me is gone with him..."

Leclerc was one of the best alpinists in the world. He made dozens of bold first ascents, including the first solo of the Corkscrew route on Cerro Torre, in Patagonia, and the first winter ascent of Mount Slesse, near his home in British Columbia. Johnson wasn’t quite as internationally recognized, but had put up many significant climbs in the Mendenhall Towers and made an ascent of Denali and Mount Hunter, both in Alaska.

Johnson had a 2-year-old son, and a GoFundMe account has been set up for him

Additionally, a GoFundMe account has been set up for Leclerc's family and girlfriend, Brette Harrington.

Marc-Andre Leclerc and Ryan Johnson Missing in Alaska

9 Mar

A search is on in the mountains outside Juneau, Alaska, for alpinists Marc-Andre Leclerc, 24, and Ryan Johnson, 34. The pair, from Agassiz, British Columbia, and Juneau, respectively, were attempting a climb on the Mendenhall Towers, 12 miles north of Juneau.

The two men made an ascent of the 6,910-foot main tower via the north face, a route that appears to have never been climbed before. On the summit, Leclerc called Justin Sweeny, the team manager at gear company Arc’teryx, Leclerc’s main sponsor. The two climbers were happy and celebrating their climb. They discussed descent options with Sweeny, debating whether to return the way they came or down the south face. Sweeny doesn’t know what the climbers ultimately decided, but speculates that they descended the steeper and looser north face.

Leclerc posted an Instagram photo from near the summit on Monday. It’s the last they were heard from.

The two climbers were dropped off near the towers on Sunday, March, 4th, and were supposed to hike out via the West Mendenhall Glacier Trail no later than Wednesday evening, according to a dispatch from the Alaska Department of Public Safety, State Troopers. When they didn’t return, friends and family notified search and rescue.

A storm blew through the Juneau area Wednesday evening, dropping between two and seven inches of snow.

Neither man, it seems, was wearing an emergency beacon or carrying a SAT phone. Local climber Jacek Maselko told the Juneau Empire that it isn’t uncommon for climbers traveling to the Towers to go without a SAT phone, since there is cell service in much of the area.

On Thursday morning Juneau Mountain Rescue initiated a search with assistance from the U.S. Coast Guard.

Alaska State Troopers say that some of the men’s gear that they had cached for the trip out has been found.

“We know they climbed to the top … it appears they didn't make it back down to the gear they didn't need for climbing,” troopers spokeswoman Megan Peters wrote in an email to Anchorage Daily News.

The search was suspended Thursday night around 5 p.m. due to mechanical issues and poor weather.

Johnson had ample experience in the range. In March 2008, he made the first ascent of the north face of the West Tower with Sam Magro and in 2011 he free climbed a line on the south buttress of the main tower. For his part, Leclerc is one of the best young alpinists in the world, making difficult first ascents in British Columbia and Patagonia. In February 2015, at just 22 years old, he became the first climber to solo the Corkscrew route on Cerro Torre in Patagonia. The 4,000-foot route is still the hardest line ever soloed in that range.

This story was updated on friday at 4pm MT. We'll continue to update it as we get more information.

Quiksilver CEO Lost at Sea

30 Jan

A search is on in southwest France for Pierre Agnes, the 54-year-old CEO of the surf brand Boardriders—formerly Quiksilver—who is presumed lost at sea. According to local news reports, at 7:30 a.m. on Tuesday, January 30, the Frenchman took his 36-foot motorboat fishing for squid off the coast of Hossegor, a popular surfing beach north of Biarritz that’s home to an annual World Surf League contest. It is not known whether he was alone or not.

The surf was six feet, with light winds and heavy fog—tricky conditions, perhaps, but nothing Agnes wasn’t prepared to handle. He was an accomplished fisherman and surfer and had made a similar trip “thousands of times,” according to Carve magazine. At some point, Agnes radioed to the Port Master at the port of Capbreton that he was going to delay his return due to poor visibility. The Twitter account for the French Maritime Prefect reported 1.2 miles of visibility.

The boat, the Mascaret III, washed ashore at the beach La Graviere at 9:15 a.m. without Agnes. the French coastguard launched a search shortly after, mobilizing three helicopters and two boats to comb the area. Nearly ten hours later, night has fallen in France, increasing the difficulty of the search.

“Everyone at La Graviere was looking for him in between sets,” surf photographer Tim Nunn told Carve. “The lifeguards on the beach asked me to look out for a body whilst I was swimming around.”

Agnes, who has been with the iconic brand for nearly 30 years, became the CEO of the now-struggling company in 2015.

Adam Ondra Climbs the Hardest Route in the World

5 Sep

Over the weekend, 24-year-old Czech climber Adam Ondra sent the hardest single pitch of rock climbing in the world. Ondra finally completed the 150-foot route, tentatively called Project Hard, after four years of work on the intricate and powerful moves that make their way up the steep, overhanging face of Hanshelleren Cave in Flatanger, Norway. He rated the climb 5.15d, the first such rating in the world. For context, the hardest pitch on Yosemite’s Dawn Wall (which Ondra climbed last November) is rated 5.14d, a full number grade lower than Project Hard. Climbing grades are subjective, so there’s no perfect comparison to another sport, but Ondra’s accomplishment is roughly the climbing equivalent of taking a minute off the marathon world record. 

“In the morning, it felt like every other day on the Project,” Ondra said in release. “It was hot, but the air was crystal clear and dry. But I felt very little pressure and lot of psyche... At the end of the route when I knew I did it, I had one of the strangest emotions ever. I clipped the anchor and I could not even scream. All I could do was just hang in the rope, feeling tears in my eyes. It was too much joy, relief, and excitement all mixed together... months and months of my life summed up in 20 minutes.”

So why did this climb get the hardest rating to date? Simple: Ondra decided it deserved it. 

Until now, the distinction of world’s hardest climb was shared by three routes, all graded 5.15c: Change, also in Flatanger; La Dura Dura in Oliana, Spain; and Vasil Vasil in Sloup, in the Czech Republic. Ondra has climbed them all, yet only one of them has been repeated by anyone else. (American Chris Sharma climbed La Dura Dura in 2013.) “Because grades in climbing are subjective,” Ondra told the Guardian, “I am fan of making big gaps between climbing grades. Knowing [Project Hard] was so much harder gives me the courage to say it is the world’s first at this level.”

If and when more people climb Project Hard, group consensus will determine if the grade holds. For now, Ondra is so far ahead of every other climber in the world that there isn’t anyone out there who can confirm or deny his claim. “[Project Hard is] totally different. I’ve never really climbed anything like this,” Ondra said in a July interview with the Outdoor Journal. “Every move has to be so precise, but at the same time you have to focus on all the other tiny details too.”

Sharma, one of the only people who comes close to the Czech climber, is taking Ondra’s word for it. “Huge congrats to @adam.ondra for sending his latest project Project Hard, which so happens to be the new and hard to fathom grade of 9c!!,” Sharma wrote on Instagram, using the French grading scale instead of the American system. “So bad ass and inspiring Adam!” 

I have to agree.